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A dark-Wooden dining space overlooking Fifth Avenue may be the environment for savory fare like gnocchi with sage butter, mild boschetto cheese plus a crimson-wine jus; and potato, leek and chard agnolotti bathed in ragù and watercress pesto.By the late 1800s, it had been a staple of Delmonico’s as well as other extravagant places. So it’s no